First Timer’s Guide to Puerto Rico

My husband and I spend 7 days in Puerto Rico in February and absolutely loved this island. From the culture and history of Old San Juan, to the surfing beaches of Rincon, from the bioluminescent bay of Vieques, to the snorkeling in Culebra – Puerto Rico has something for everyone!

Planning Your Trip

Our Itinerary

• Day 1: Fly into SJU, stay in Condado
• Day 2: Explore Old San Juan
• Day 3: Culebra Day Trip, stay in Condado
• Day 4: El Yunque, ferry to Vieques, Bio Bay
• Day 5: Vieques ferry to Ceiba, road trip to Rincón
• Day 6: Surfing in Rincón, drive to Hilton Caribe
• Day 7: Resort day at Hilton Caribe
• Day 8: Fly Home

Recommended Itinerary

• Day 1: Fly into SJU, Uber to Airbnb in Old San Juan
• Day 2: Explore Old San Juan
• Day 3: Explore Old San Juan, evening La Parguera
• Day 4: Early pick up rental car, El Yunque, ferry to Culebra
• Day 5: Snorkeling in Culebra, ferry back, drive to Rincón
• Day 6: Rincón
• Day 7: Rincón
• Day 8: Drive back to San Juan, Fly Home

Accommodation:

San Juan: We stayed at an Airbnb in Condado. This place worked fine, but it was smaller that it seems in photos and loud outside because its ground level on a busy street. I wanted a pool and parking, but I realized after the fact, that it would have been better to stay in Old San Juan and walk/use Uber. Having a car in Old San Juan was a hassle and we didn’t even use the pool because of the ambiance/surroundings.

Resort in San Juan: We stayed 2 nights at the Hilton Caribe, and after quite a lot of research, this seemed like the best option. After our stay, I would not necessarily recommend it. Pros: resort amenities like private beach, pools, onsite restaurants, etc. Cons: Quite expensive for the quality of amenities, service was slow (had to wait 30 mins to ask a question at the front desk), and we just enjoyed other areas of Puerto Rico more!

Vieques: We spent one night at a little Airbnb in Vieques. This place worked great. Close to the ferry, free street parking, host was helpful, small but just what we needed for one night.

Rincón: Our Mango Mountain Airbnb was EASILY our favorite stay of the trip. The pool was shared, but it was beautiful and calm and we loved using it. The place was spacious and comfortable with free parking (you need a car to come here, ideally a jeep). Just a 5 min drive from incredible beaches and great restaurant options.

Getting Around Puerto Rico:

Uber: Uber works great in San Juan, Puerto Rico. It is fast, reliable, and cheap. I would recommend not having a rental car in San Juan if you can manage it and just rely on Uber.

Rental Car: You will want/need a rental car to go pretty much anywhere outside of San Juan. In the itinerary above, I’d recommend a few days without a rental car in San Juan, then pick one up when you’re headed out of San Juan.

Tours: If you’re not comfortable driving or getting a rental car, there are tours you can book that will take you outside of San Juan. There are plenty of tours to El Yunque, snorkeling, and more.

Taking the Ferry to Culebra or Vieques:

The best way to get to Culebra or Vieques is to take the Puerto Rico Ferry. You can also fly, but the ferry was so affordable and easy. Here’s what you need to know about taking the ferry:

Details:

• Cost: The ferry tickets are only ~$2pp each way, making them very affordable
• Buying Tickets: You can buy tickets online about a month before your ferry. I’m not exactly sure when they open, but check regularly because they do SELL OUT in the winter. They also reserve a set of tickets to be bought at the window. If you don’t get a ticket online, have no fear. Go to the ticket window about 1.5 – 2 hours before the ferry you want, and you’ll likely be able to snag tickets.
• Parking: The parking scene is pretty convenient. There is a big and secure parking lot just down the street past the ferry terminal. The cost is $15 per 24 hours. There is a shuttle that takes you to the ferry station. The shuttle stop for visitors is the tent closer to the road (the one further back by monthly parking is for locals). When you’re coming back to Ceiba, I recommend trying to rush off the ferry and go right to the shuttle stop for the parking lot. Otherwise, you’ll have to wait a few rounds of shuttles to the parking lot (up to 30 minutes), or walk (10 min walk). You can pay with credit card at the parking exit or pay with cash at the parking service station and they validate your ticket.

Tips to Know:

• The Ferry Ride Itself: The first ferry we took was 6am to Culebra and it was BUMPY. As someone who gets seasick, I took dramamine and was struggling, but ultimately made it. The other ferry rides were better, but definitely still rocking around. If you get seasick, make sure you take dramamine and come prepared. The cargo + passenger ferries don’t have any outdoor seating.
• Luggage: You have to pay a small fee ($2 I think) per bigger item you bring on the ferry (think carry on/checked vs personal item on an airplane). They make you store bigger items separately so it will take you longer to get off the ferry (maybe 10 extra minutes)
• Cargo vs Passenger Routes: There are 3 different types of routes on the timetable: Cargo only, passenger only, and cargo + passenger. We only took the cargo + passenger routes which ended up being about an hour ferry ride each way. I heard the passenger only ones go quite a bit faster, but I can’t tell you for sure.

Culebra Island Excursion

Getting Around Culebra:

Car or Golf Cart: You’ll need to rent something if you want freedom and mobility on the island. We rented a golf cart so that we could get around to the main beaches. If you want to access more remote parts of the island, you’ll need a jeep. We went to Carlos Jeep Rental which was just fine. We arrived on the island without a reservation and there was a van to take us to the rental shop. The golf cart was about $75 for the day.

Taxis: We didn’t try to use a taxi, but I didn’t see many of them. If you do want to use a taxi, you should get their number so you can call them back during your time on the island.

Things to do in Culebra

Snorkeling at Tamarindo Beach: This was one of our favorite experiences in all of Puerto Rico. We had our own snorkel gear and then drove our rental golf cart to the beach. We just plopped our stuff under a tree and swam for hours. The reefs are off to the left of the beach.

Relax on Flamenco Beach:  Considered one of the most beautiful beaches ever, make sure to spend some time on Flamenco Beach. There is a small entrance fee you have to pay to go to the beach since it has facilities. You can rent beach chairs and umbrellas, buy snacks, and use the showers/bathrooms. I’ve heard there is good snorkeling here too, but we didn’t find it. You can also walk all the way down the beach to your left, you’ll see an abandoned tank on the beach. 

Get out on the water: I wanted to book a snorkeling tour, but we didn’t find one that fit our schedules. A couple that came highly recommended are Bright Paddle and Culebra Divers. 

Vieques Island Excursion

Logistics for Vieques:

Getting around by Car: I highly recommend a car rental, ideally a jeep. This will give you independence to get around the island and explore. The island is very informal and not developed or connected, so a car is the only reliable option.

Food: Things on Vieques close early, so make sure you eat before 9pm. We tried Biekes Bistro and Mama Mia – both delicious. For breakfast, we ate at Rising Roost which we highly recommend!

Things to do in Vieques

Mosquito Bay Bioluminescent Kayaking: Vieques is most famously known as the home to the world’s brightest bioluminescent bay. You cannot swim in this bay and you cannot go out on your own. There are a variety of tours that will take you out on the bay and teach you about the science and the history. We went with The Pirate Bio Bay Tours and it was great!

Enjoy the stunning beaches: We drove our jeep to Playa La Chiva in the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge and parked in slot 10. The beach was absolutely stunning. It was peaceful and secluded and clear. We tried snorkeling but didn’t see much here, even though it is claimed as one of the best snorkeling spots on the island.

Snorkeling: We didn’t find the best snorkeling on Vieques, but we were told its at Playa Esperanza. You can read this blog about other snorkeling spots on the island. 

El Yunque Excursion

Logistics for El Yunque:

Getting around by Car: I highly recommend a car rental to get around. It gives you maximum flexibility to go at your own pace and avoid crowds. The one downside here is parking. El Yunque has limited parking so you’ll want to go early, maybe even before it opens, if you drive yourself.

No Car Option: The best thing to do if you don’t have your own car is to book a tour that will take you through El Yunque.

Timing: The rainforest is always open as it is a winding road up into the forest. The Visitors Center (El Portal) opens at 9am, but is an offshoot of the park, not actually a portal to the park (as I originally thought). The park itself (bathrooms, stores, etc) are open at 8am. We went at 7:30am and it was perfect timing!

Things to do in El Yunque

Explore all the hikes and sights: You don’t need to predetermine your itinerary since it is really straightforward to see all the top sights in El Yunque. I’d recommend driving all the way up to the Mount Britton hike and then work your way back down towards Coco Falls.

El Portal: You can visit the El Portal visitors center at El Yunque for $8 per person. This is a great spot to learn more about the park, the wildlife, and the ranger programs.

Lluvia Deli Bar & Artefacto: When we finished out morning hiking at El Yunque, this was the perfect spot for brunch and an amazing coffee 

Rincón

Logistics for Rincón

Getting around by Car: A rental car is definitely your best option for getting to and around Rincón. You could get a transfer out there, but I think the charm of Rincón is checking out the various beaches and mountain regions, so it’s best to have flexibility.

Food: Rincón has a cute little downtown area with lots of nice restaurants surrounding a town square. It felt like the perfect combo of charming and developed. We had some delicious tacos at Taqueria Vatos Locos, dipped paletas at Paletados, and an amazing brunch with a stunning view at The English Rose. 

Things to do in Rincón

Surf Lesson: Rincón is known for surfing, so if you are up for it, get out there and give it a try! I had an incredible surf lesson with Ramse from Surf Lessons Puerto Rico. Scheduling was a little complicated because the webform was broken, but we ended up connecting via phone and then everything was super chill and easy. I had a 2 hour lesson with one other girl. We surfed real boards (not foam boards) and learned so much. 10/10 recommend. We surfed at Playa Maria.

Explore the Beaches: This area is less developed and has stunning beaches. We only visited Playa Maria for surfing, but you can check out Domes Beach, Steps Beach – Reserva Marina Tres Palmas (best for snorkeling), or Playa Doña Lala Beach.

Adventure Sports: On top of surfing, there are so many other fun activities available in Rincón. You can try out paddle boarding, snorkeling, diving, mountain biking, and more. We didn’t have time for these, but you can check out this blog to learn more!